In a world where "natural" is often an empty slogan and packaging tempts with the words "bio" and "eco", she goes against the tide. By training a lawyer, by passion a cosmetics educator, by choice—a consumer who reads ingredient lists. We talk about how she began her journey from changing a regulation that was supposed to mean little but set off an avalanche of reflection and a life revolution.
Let's start at the beginning. Where did your interest in cosmetics, skincare and that whole— as you put it— "journey through INCI" come from?
It started completely unplanned, with... law. I was working as a lawyer in a large American corporation and I was writing an opinion regarding a change in cosmetics regulation. It was about translating the word ingredients to "składniki" on packaging. That was the whole change—but I was intrigued by what actually hid after that colon. I started reading ingredient lists—first out of curiosity, then with growing disbelief. What are these names? How does this affect the skin? The internet was in its infancy then, so I ordered books from the USA, pored over Latin-chemical names and discovered a completely new world. Then my own skin came into play—sensitive, acne-prone, dehydrated, completely unhappy with products that were supposed to work. That's when I learned there is no legal definition of a "dermocosmetic." That a pharmacy cream and a perfumery cream are subject to the same regulations. And I began to understand how much packaging can manipulate consumer trust.
You also started noticing that certain ingredients were disappearing from the market.
Yes. And that reinforced for me that it's worth having your own filter before something ends up on our skin. An example? Methylisothiazolinone. For years a ubiquitous preservative, which in the USA earned the title Allergen of the Year. The European Commission decided it was more practical to withdraw it than to treat people for allergic complications. But before it disappeared, it was everywhere—even in "hypoallergenic" cosmetics. Cosmetic law is the minimum—if something is allowed, it doesn't mean it's good for everyone or that it won't harm. It's just that not everyone knows that.
What does "natural" mean to you?
Nowadays that word doesn't mean much. It has become a marketing gimmick. For some it's a cucumber on the face, for others a jar of natural cream that someone whipped up because they know a bit about cosmetics. But it's not like that. For me "natural" is a product based on plant ingredients, free from petroleum-derived substances and unnecessary fragrances—but not made in the kitchen. I don't like "home" remedies like egg yolk for hair or oatmeal on the face. For me naturalness is professionalism: technologists, research, a stable formula.
Do we have a legal definition of a natural cosmetic?
No. And that's a huge problem. Because since there is no definition, any manufacturer can call their product "natural." You can try to rely on certifications—like Ecocert, COSMOS, NaTrue—but they are voluntary. There is a lack of clear legal frameworks that would protect the consumer. Greenwashing is everyday reality.
What annoys you most about greenwashing?
How much packaging can mislead. Green color, a leaf, the word "bio" on the front, and on the back an ingredient list full of controversial substances. A cream with a single plant extract is already called "eco." "Hypoallergenic" can contain a strong allergen. This is the reality without regulation. That's why it's worth reading ingredient lists and not trusting slogans.
Which ingredients are absolutely off-limits for you?
First—parabens, particularly propylparaben. It's not just a preservative—according to studies it may affect women's fertility. Second—methylisothiazolinone, or MIT. An allergen that was everywhere for years—today it's already partly banned, but still present. Third—PEGs and paraffin, i.e. petroleum-derived substances. Paraffin may not be toxic, but it gives the skin nothing besides occlusion.
How do you choose your skincare?
I always start with the ingredient list. I avoid ingredients I have doubts about—because many of the things I avoided 15 years ago are now banned. I don't want to be a test subject on my own skin. To be clear: even if a product looks beautiful and promises miracles—I scrutinize the ingredient list. I want to know what I'm putting on my face. I write to brands, I ask questions, I wait for answers. If they stay silent—something may be up. I believe that reading ingredient lists allows us to better understand what we buy.
Are you equally strict about fragrances?
Fragrances mean more to me than a pretty note. They are memories, travels, emotions. That's why I'm restrictive in skincare—but I give myself freedom with perfumes. Thanks to Galilu I discovered a completely different quality of perfumes—from single-molecule scents that are transparent and don't contain irritating additives, to natural brands made from absolutes, isolates and plant oils. I started avoiding compositions with phthalates—ingredients often present in mass-market fragrances that can have potentially harmful effects. Many perfumes also contain allergens that manufacturers don't have to disclose—a mere "parfum" on the label can hide dozens of different substances. That's why I believe the nose is the best guide. If a scent causes me discomfort at first contact—gives me a headache, irritates me or creates tension—it's a sign I should skip it. That's why I choose scents that harmonize with my intuition, emotions and well-being.
Do you have favorite perfumes?
I have several—for different days, moods and needs. One of my beloved scents is Gypsy Water by Byredo. I once wrote to them asking if they used phthalates. They replied they don't. That was a test of honesty for me—a sign they are transparent, aware and in tune with the times. That's important, because a scent is more than a pretty note. It's a declaration, a story, a relationship with the body. I also value natural perfumes—like Raer Scents, ORMAIE or Maria Candida Gentile. These brands create not just scents but whole philosophies. They use recycled glass, natural inks, ecological packaging. Their compositions are based on absolutes, isolates and plant oils—complex, deep and gentle on skin and senses. To me that's the future of perfumery. I also have more classic, synthetic, and mixed scents—because I believe in choice. What's important is that it's conscious. And here I must mention Essential Parfums, which I discovered thanks to Galilu. It's not an expensive brand, but exceptionally honest. The creator puts the perfumer's name on the packaging—first and last name. Moreover, she informs about concentration—how much actual fragrance essence is in the bottle. That's rare. But what impresses me most is the openness in communication: here we have natural ingredients, here synthetic. Fig is of natural origin, but it was reinforced with synthetic musk—and the brand doesn't pretend it's 100% natural. I respect them for that. Because when I know what I'm buying, I can decide what I want on my skin. Such honesty is a huge value to me—and increasingly rare.
Galilu keeps coming up in your statements. Why?
For me it's an absolutely symbolic place. One of the first in Poland where you could buy high-quality natural cosmetics in a stationary store. I remember discovering the brand Erbaviva there—brilliant formulas created with mothers and babies in mind, a great deodorant, simple ingredient lists. At a time when natural skincare was a niche here and most products had to be imported from New Zealand, the USA or Germany—Galilu was like a revelation. At first it was hard—I ordered natural cosmetics from abroad, did research, tested. But at the same time I watched how the first domestic brands began to sprout in Poland. I've been rooting for them from the start because I know things can be different. And Galilu has always been about that "different." To this day every brand you find there has meaning, history, quality and coherence. That selection is not accidental—it's a place that shows you can create and choose cosmetics without compromise.
Did your skin change when you changed your skincare?
Yes. And a lot. In the early 2000s I used everything that was fashionable: smoothing primers with silicones, oil-free creams, mattifying foundations. The effect? Skin was smooth for a moment, then drama: dehydration, acne, inflammatory reactions. The turning point was an oil serum—not homemade, but a professional blend tailored to my skin type. Applied to damp skin it soothed, nourished and regulated. I gave up excess and trusted simplicity. Dermatologists used to prescribe steroids for me. Here, quality was enough. I'm not a cosmetologist, but when women write that thanks to my recommendations they also stopped using conventional products and noticed improvement—I know that natural skincare really works. Plant oils and extracts have power if well chosen.
What does your daily skincare routine look like today?
I always wash my face twice a day—morning and evening. But I don't do it quickly—I really take a moment to thoroughly cleanse the skin. I use a gentle gel, non-invasive, without intense fragrances. Then I reach for thermal water or a spray toner—and not only on the face but also the décolletage and chest. For me skincare doesn't end at the chin. After toner it's time for an oil serum—a few drops on damp skin. I never touch my face with the dropper! It looks impressive on Instagram, but it's absolutely unhygienic. The dropper gets contaminated; it's one of the bigger skincare misunderstandings. Always first onto the hand, then the face. The next step is eye cream and day cream. Regarding sunscreens—I use them but with great care. I'm not an SPF-orthodox. I think you don't have to slather yourself from morning to night, especially when you work at a desk and daytime light exposure is minimal. But I do protect myself from the sun—always. I seek shade, I don't like sunbathing, I've never liked it. When I do use sunscreens, I choose only mineral ones. I know they can whiten—but that doesn't bother me. There are tinted versions, e.g. from Dr. Hauschka or Madara—and those are my choices. For the body I also use mineral filters—here I can recommend Erbaviva. Even if they leave a white film, I have no problem with it. If I'm on the beach—it's only in the afternoon, never in full sun. I smear myself white and that's it. Sometimes I get comments: "Oh God, I couldn't do that!"—and I understand. But for me it's a matter of choice and awareness. Each of us decides what we want to put on ourselves and what effects to achieve. I also had a tanning bed phase, like most people born in the '70s and '80s. But fortunately I got bored quickly. Today I'm in a completely different place.
Will you point out specific products you particularly value?
From oil serums—Ageless Beauty by Ania Grela from Warsztat Piękna. An absolute hit. Also pure prickly pear seed oil—excellent quality is available from, for example, Bracia Mydlarze. Dr. Hauschka eye cream without water in the formula. Brilliant. I like Mossa's face cream and mineral sunscreens—also Dr. Hauschka or Madara in a tinted version.
Let's stay with skincare a moment longer. What about hair?
Also without fuss. I wash twice with shampoo, once with conditioner. The best conditioner I've ever had is Mauli Rituals from Galilu. It's the Bentley of conditioners—wonderfully scented, smoothing, no frizz. And Weleda Tonic for scalp—an unfailing classic. I use hair oils sporadically, but only when I know what oil it is, where it comes from, how it's pressed, like Grow Strong Hair Oil from Mauli Rituals.
And coloring? Do you find a compromise?
Yes. I'm not perfect—I color my hair. I choose the Danish brand Natulique, which is less toxic, more conscious. I don't use henna, I don't like home dyeing. But I no longer lighten my hair—I gave up cool blonde. And my hair thanks me for it.
Body care?
Simple. I love almond oil—especially I recommend it to pregnant women. It's light, absorbs quickly, suits every skin type. In summer I keep Fridge's avocado balm in the fridge—it cools wonderfully. But I won't pretend—I don't use body lotion daily. I do use fragrances—every day. I have several—and each gets its five minutes depending on the day or mood.
Let's peek into your makeup bag. First place?
Definitely the stick highlighter from Westman Atelier. It's my absolute must-have. I use it everywhere—on eyelids, the bridge of the nose, under the eyes, on the lips. It gives freshness, light, a healthy glow. I add a cream blush—also in a stick, preferably the same one so everything harmonizes. That duo gives me more than classic makeup. If I had to pick one item that always has to be with me? Lip balm. I have them everywhere—in my bag, in the car, at work. It's my little addiction. And I must mention the brand itself. Gucci Westman was a celebrity makeup artist for over 25 years. She worked with the biggest names, saw skin reactions, allergies, the consequences of all those controversial ingredients on clients' faces. After 25 years she decided to start her own brand—Westman Atelier—based on natural cosmetics. It's a brilliant example for me of someone with experience who decided to do things differently. That highlighter is a small miracle in a stick. Then I don't need mascara or eyeshadow—one product that enlivens the whole face, works like a gloss, brightens the eyes and adds life. And it does it without irritating ingredients. This is the new luxury—simplicity, quality, awareness.
You're a lawyer, you work daily in the Sejm, yet you're very active on Instagram and you teach conscious choices. If you had to describe your mission in one sentence?
I want people to make conscious cosmetic choices. Not because something is trendy or on sale, but because they know what they are buying, what they put on their skin and what consequences that can have—today and in ten years. When I say "conscious choice" I mean—reading ingredient lists. Or at least—becoming interested in them. Today awareness is the new luxury. Luxury is knowing who stands behind the brand, what the supply chain looks like, what happens to the packaging after the product is used. Luxury is coherence: from formula to communication. A logo is no longer enough. More and more people are looking for exactly that—and rightly so.
And if a consumer has no chemical knowledge—where to start?
With curiosity. It's enough to look once at the ingredient list and search what something that sounds strange means. It's enough to ask the manufacturer—a manufacturer is obliged to answer. If they don't answer, it may mean it's not worth buying from them. We vote with our wallets. And that vote really matters. Growing awareness is no longer a trend—it's a necessity. Customers ask, check, search. Even big brands are changing—modifying formulas, giving up controversial ingredients. And natural skincare has ceased to be a niche—it's become part of the mainstream. And that's good.
If you had to leave our readers with one thought, what would it be?
Be curious. Don't believe packaging unthinkingly. Ask, check, choose wisely. Awareness is not a burden—it's freedom. And in the beauty world where anything is possible, knowledge is the most beautiful filter.